Friday 12 December 2014

Pattern Hack: Make Shorts using the Baby & Toddler Harem Pants Pattern

Finally! You've all been asking for this pattern hack for ages & I've been promising to find a gap in my schedule to test it. 

So this past week a fabulous group of ladies helped me test run a very simple but effective pattern hack. 

And here it is..... the long awaited pattern hack to make babies & toddlers shorts & little bloomers from the Harem Pants pattern.... all ready for the Aussie summer holidays. I have to say, the Baby/Toddler Harem Pants pattern is one versatile pattern.

Firstly, here's the pattern we will be using. Click here if you don't have it yet. 



Here & below the 'how to' instructions are some 
gorgeous tester pics for you to be inspired by.

These gorgeous little shorts are size 1 & were made by Suzie from Applegail Clothing. On the left is the Shorties length in shorts & bloomers. On the right is the Stompers length (less 2cm) in shorts & then bloomers. 




STEP 1: CHOOSING YOUR LENGTH
Because we are crazy about options, there are 3 lengths to choose from:

1. SHORTIES - these are cute little shorts that sit mid thigh.

2. MIDDIES - awesome little knee length shorts

3. STOMPERS - this style sits below the knee

See table below at Step 3 for finished inside leg lengths.




STEP 2: WHICH PATTERN PIECES DO YOU NEED?
You can decide which style pant you want to make (and I have included more notes down the bottom of the page) but for this pattern hack, we will go with STYLE A: A nice easy pair of shorts with no side seams: perfect for beginners, a quick sew or sewing a gazillion gorgeous pairs in one night. 

PATTERN PIECE: You will need Pattern Piece #1.

WAISTBAND: see page 7 for lengths.
I suggest reducing the waistband width to one of the following:
Sizes 0-2: reduce waistband width to 8cm (3 1/8") & use 20mm (3/4") elastic. Sizes 0000-00: reduce waistband width to 6.5cm (2 1/2") & use 12mm (1/2") elastic.


So we're all good? You've decided on your length and you've got your pattern piece ready to go. Grab a ruler, a pencil & a flat surface. 



STEP 3: CUTTING OUT YOUR SHORTS PATTERN
Next we'll measure & draw the new leg lengths onto your pattern piece.

  1. Grab your pencil & ruler.
  2. Using the measurements in the table below, measure UP from the very bottom edge of the original pattern piece to get the measurement you need for your shorts or bloomers. A 2.5cm seam allowance is already added into this measurement.
  3. Either cut your pattern along this line or, better still, fold it up so you can make different lengths at a later date.
  4. Now cut 1 PAIR of this new pattern piece in your fabric. (think of 1 pair as the mirror image of each other.... like a pair of shoes... or legs).
  5. Next cut your waistband (see note above).
NOTE
  • The first measurement you see in the table below is how far up from the bottom of the pattern edge you need to measure for each size/length. 
  • The second measurement is the finished inside leg after your shorts have been completed. A 3-3.5cm inside leg might seem short to you, but on their gorgeous little thighs it's not.








STEP 4: SEWING YOUR SHORTS

This is a size 2 pair of Shorties made by Karen from Posh Bots Creations.
Shorts (left) & as bloomers (right).

STYLE A: AS SHORTS

  1. Follow procedure as outlined in the Baby/Toddler Harem Pants Pattern from Step 1-12 (pages 10-11). Just note at Step 2, I’ve allowed 2.5cm (1") for a double turned hem so turn & iron your hem up 1cm (3/8”) then turn & iron it up again 1.5cm (5/8") this time.
  2. At Step 12, don’t leave a gap.... unless you're making the bloomers & then do leave a gap (you can see below for that) :)
  3. Skip Steps 13-15
  4. Continue to Step 16-30. And you're done.


STYLE A: AS BLOOMERS
  1. Follow Step 1 above.
  2. At Step 12 leave the gap but don't insert your elastic yet. 
  3. Skip Steps 13-15 for now (we will come back to them).
  4. Continue from Step 16-30 to complete your bloomers.
  5. Next go back to Step 13 & insert your 9mm elastic using the measurements in the table below. 
  6. At Step 14 I recommend you just do a small stitch to hold the elastic closed and then go try it on your gorgeous bub. The reason I suggest this is all babies & toddlers are different. They come in all sorts of different shapes & sizes. Your baby won't necessarily be the 'standard' (who is, right!) so to be on the safe side, try it on your baby first (no pins though!).
  7. After your little one has tried them on, do Steps 14-15 to finish. 



And that's it! Pretty simple hey :)




Here are some more gorgeous little poppets in their gorgeous little shorts and bloomers made by their gorgeous mummies.

These are size 00 pairs of Shorties made by Sally from Jack and Pippa's Handmade. Shorts (left) & bloomers (right).



Some little bloomers. Shorties length, from left to right: Hannah (Pearlvin Designs), Marnie (Horris & Deedle), Thalia (Precious Ladybubs), Jo (Bonbon), Laurie (Hannah's Daisy) - 0000 is a little big for this precious 1 week old baby. Far right: Stompers in a tiny 0000 by Theresa (Little Lady Bug).



Some little shorts. From left to right (top row): Melanie - Stompers in size 2, Sally (Jack & Pippa's) - Middies in size 00, Teneal (Yowie Dowies) - Middies in size 000, Suzie (Applegail) - Stompers in size 2, Melanie - Stompers in size 2. Laurie (Hannah's Daisy) - the gorgeous little newborn baby wearing a Shorties in size 0000. Bottom row: Middies by Bel (My Little iDesigns), Shorties by Jo (Bonbon), Shorties by Teneal (Yowie Dowies), Sompers & Shorties by Suzie (Applegail).





Now, if you're wondering how you convert the two piece harem pants pattern & add the frill down the side legs or add the pockets currently in the Baby & Toddler Harem Pants pattern, here's how.

First, read the steps above for Style A to familiarise yourself with the changes.

STEP 1: CHOOSING YOUR LENGTH
As above for Style A.

STEP 2: WHICH PATTERN PIECES DO YOU NEED?
STYLE B, D, E, F: Use Pattern Pieces #2 & #3 for your shorts & either 7 for a mock pocket (all sizes) or 8 for real pockets (only available for sizes 1-2). I suggest you only do a mock pocket in the very short shorts.

STYLE B: You will also need pattern piece #4 for your side ruffles. 

The waistbands for all these styles can be found in the measurements table on page 7.

STEP 3: CUTTING OUT YOUR SHORTS PATTERN
Use table above from Style A.
STYLE B, D, E, F: Pattern Pieces #2 & #3 - cut 1 pair (mirror image of each piece).

POCKETS - cut 1 pair of whichever pocket you've chosen.

STYLE B: Side ruffles - whatever you cut off the bottom of your pants, you need to cut the same amount off the bottom of your Side Ruffle pattern piece (#4) and then cut 2 on the Fold.

STEP 4: SEWING YOUR SHORTS

STYLE B: Side Ruffle Shorts

  1. Follow procedure as outlined in Steps 1-15 on pages 15-16.
  2. Follow procedure as outlined from Step 1-12 (pages 10-11). Just note at Step 2, I’ve allowed 3cm for a double turned hem so turn & iron your hem up 1cm (3/8”) then turn & iron it up again 1.5cm (5/8") this time.
  3. At Step 12, don’t leave a gap.
  4. Next continue to Step 30.


STYLE D: Mock Mini Pockets

  1. Follow procedure as outlined in Steps 1-10 on pages 21-22.
  2. Follow procedure as outlined from Step 1-12 (pages 10-11). Just note at Step 2, I’ve allowed 3cm for a double turned hem so turn & iron your hem up 1cm (3/8”) then turn & iron it up again 1.5cm (5/8") this time.
  3. At Step 12, don’t leave a gap.
  4. Next continue to Step 30.


STYLE E: Topstitched Pockets (size 1-2 only)
  1. Follow procedure as outlined in Steps 1-13 on pages 23-24.
  2. Follow procedure as outlined from Step 1-12 (pages 10-11). Just note at Step 2, I’ve allowed 3cm for a double turned hem so turn & iron your hem up 1cm (3/8”) then turn & iron it up again 1.5cm (5/8") this time.
  3. At Step 12, don’t leave a gap.
  4. Next continue to Step 30.

STYLE F: Pockets with Contrast Binding (size 1-2 only)
  1. Follow procedure as outlined in Steps 1-11 on pages 25-26.
  2. Follow procedure as outlined from Step 1-12 (pages 10-11). Just note at Step 2, I’ve allowed 3cm for a double turned hem so turn & iron your hem up 1cm (3/8”) then turn & iron it up again 1.5cm (5/8") this time.
  3. At Step 12, don’t leave a gap.
  4. Next continue to Step 30.


ADDING A HEM RUFFLE:

It's very simple to add a hem ruffle. These instructions will add a ruffle measuring 2.5cm finished, to the hem of your shorts.
Where to insert: after Step 9 on page 11 (you will skip steps 10-15 on page 11).

What to cut:
Use the table below to cut 2 x 7cm wide strips of fabric.
This ruffle will add 2.5cm (1") to the length of your shorts (finished measurements in the table above) so you might want to cut a little off the shorts. To have them the same finished length, cut off another 4.5cm BUT note that this will be too short for the shorty shorts so I'd not cut any off those.


How to sew it:
1) With wrong sides together, fold & iron each strip in half longways & then open out again.



2) With right sides together, fold each strip in half & sew together along the short edge. Iron seam open.


3) Fold strips in half along crease lines.
4) Sew a gathering stitch around the raw edge of your strips.
5) Find halfway along strip & halfway around shorts.


6) With right sides together, align seam with inside leg. Pin.
7) Align halfway marks on strip & leg of shorts. Pin.
8) Pull in gathering stitch so the ruffle is the same size as your shorts leg opening. Distribute evenly & pin all the way round.
9) Straight stitch around leg.



10) Overlock around leg.
11) Turn ruffle down & iron seam towards shorts. 
12) Topstitch close to the edge if you like.
13) Repeat on the other leg & then continue on from Step 16 on page 12, adding your waistband.




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